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Oil Tasting

EXPLOTACIONES EL ALAMILLO, S.A

Las 7 Encinas Picual

Olivarama.com

Colour: Golden.
Nose: Medium intensity fruitiness, with a predominance of green leaf. In addition, certain hints of tomato, grass and other nuances reminiscent of peach are present.
Palate: Among the medium spiciness and mild bitterness, the green leaf presents a medium intensity that gives way to certain green grass notes. There is also medium persistence of the positive attributes in the mouth.
Varietal: Picual.
Origin: El Membrillo (Toledo).

www.las7encinas.com

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Olivapedia

What are we talking about when we refer to fat yield?

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Fat yield is a parameter that measures the fat content or, in other words, the oil contained in the olive, which is the raw material, and in the alpeorujo (solid liquid waste), which is the main byroduct of the virgin olive oil production process.
In both cases, the fat content is calculated on a portion of the ground olive or alpeorujo, from which all moistness has been eliminated in order to verify how much oil there is in a known quantity of olive or alpeorujo.
When we analyse the olive, this parameter takes on considerable importance because it determines the basis on which the olive producer is paid for the production. In this case, the value usually assigned is called “moist fat yield” or “fresh weight”. The results expressed in these terms are influenced by the presence of moisture, meaning it is not a good measure to reliably establish the amount of oil accumulated in the fruit. This is why it is recommendable to use the so-called fat content in dry matter (% FCDM) calculated using the equation, representing the moisture and volatile matter (MVM) of the sample:

% FCDM= (% MoistOil / 100 - % MVM) 100

This formula is also applied to the calculation of alpeorujo fat content on a dry base.
The percentage of oil contained in the fruit is the amount of potential oil that may be extracted from the same and, therefore, if the efficacy of the elaboration process were 100%, it would be equivalent to the amount of oil that could be extracted.
Nonetheless, there are a number of factors that prevent this process from occurring at its maximum capacity. Some of them are: the addition of additives during malaxation of the paste, whether water or talc; the ripeness level of the ground fruit; the moisture content and volatile matter of the fruit, etc.
All of these variables cause a small amount of oil to be lost in the alpeorujo, measurable in this case by calculating its fat content. In this sense, a routine control during elaboration makes it possible to discover how effective the extraction process is turning out to be.
Likewise, the process fat yield or process balance will take into account the R values, the real oil quantity contained in the fruit and the oil losses in the alpeorujo.
Mari Paz Aguilera, expert in oils from CITOLIVA

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From the Tree to the Table

OLIVE VARIETALS

Arróniz

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Also known as the varietal from the North, the Arróniz is a genuine survivor. It has successfully evaded the harshness of an occasionally extreme climate, it has managed to adapt to all sorts of terrains and it has proven capable of preventing its own disappearance at a time in which the vineyard began to steal its thunder. Luckily, the current-day administrative and professional efforts have succeeded in giving it back an honourable, though discreet, place in national olive oil culture… Read more.

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Book Review

JORDI BASTART

Terres de L’ Ebre, itinerarios turísticos

Olivarama.com

Edited by: Lectio Ediciones
Language: Spanish
Year of edition: 2014
Pages: 120
RRP: 13,90 €
Tel.: +34 977 602 591
www.lectio.es
lectio@lectio.es









A list of proposals for seven long routes through the Lands of the Ebro, each with basic information on how not to miss out on the natural spaces, heritage and cultural activity of each emblematic area is what the reader will find in the pages of Terres de L’ Ebre,
itinerarios turísticos. This is a wonderful guide to discover a spectacular territory which, located in the south of Catalonia, surrounds the river and offers a very varied geography.
In this manual, the author Jordi Bastart provides everything necessary for the enjoyment of a different and interesting destination: walking itineraries; visits to castles, natural caves, beaches and outstanding places to stay; tastings of the typical gastronomy…
But he also suggests travelling deeper into this land populated with olive groves and vineyards which adorn the mountains of Pàndols, Cavalls and Fatarella, to discover where these delicious extra virgin olive oils –produced under the PDOs Aceite del Baix Ebre-Montsià and Aceite de Terra Alta- and wines that pair with even the most varied cuisine, come from.
Without a doubt, Terres de L’ Ebre, itinerarios turísticos is a journey illustrated with spectacular images of the unique and varied landscape of these lands declared a Biosphere Reserve.

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The Event

CONCURSO JÓVENES AUTORES EL ACEITUNING

Queens of kings

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Olives are the undisputed queens of the aperitif. Whether alone or as the base for original and tasty dressings, these nutritional treats promote their enormous culinary potential whenever they can. One example of this took place in the hands of a group of “dressing kings” who participated in The Aceituning Young Authors Competition. Held in Madrid back in the month of June, it was a very closely fought contest, but just one chef from Madrid succeeded in winning the first prize… Read more.

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OK&KO

Recurrent single-doses

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Once again, we come across the single-portion tubs by Huerta Dehesa El Alcornocal, the company from Badajoz, a perfectly good option for any establishment to abide by the duly labelled, nonrefillable oils law. On this occasion we came across it in the café of the Hospital Universitario de Fuenlabrada, where visitors could cheer up their toasts and salads with a good sprinkle of the extra virgin Iberitos… See picture.

Place: Hospital Universitario de Fuenlabrada (Madrid)
Date: August 26, 2014
Picture: OLIVARAMA

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Interview

MARÍA REYES, CATEGORY DIRECTOR OF KEHE DISTRIBUTORS

“It’s not easy to build a brand in the US. It takes a long time, a lot of money and a lot of work and patience”

Olivarama.com

Anglosaxon mastermind with a Latin soul. This is the image María, Cuban by birth and North American by adoption, transmitted to us in the few hours we spent with her. A combination that, alongside her experience in the distribution of gourmet olive oils could make a big difference to the successful distribution of our own brands in her country of residence, which the Spanish forums and symposia should not allow to get away. She certainly seemed willing to go wherever she might be needed… Read more.

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Olivarama Recommends

El Inti de Oro

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C/ Ventura de Vega, 12 & C/ Amor de Dios, 9
28014 Madrid (España/Spain)
Tel.: +34 914 296 703 / 914 291 958
www.intideoro.com
Type of cuisine: Traditional Peruvian
Chef: Segundo Vidarte/Gonzalo Amorós
Average price: 30 €
Opening hours: From Mondays to Sundays, from 13:30 to 16:00; and from 21:00 to 24:00.



The most authentic flavours and aromas of Peruvian cuisine reside in El Inti de Oro, a Madrid-based restaurant which, after 20 years in operation, continues to represent this mix of cultures resulting from the five thousand regional specialities.
Both the staff and the decoration of this restaurant are dressed in Peruvian style, while it's kitchen offers a cuisine based on the most authentic flavours and aromas of the ancestral Creole gastronomy.
Sprinkled with the extra virgin, Abril Gran Selección, the dishes that are minutely designed by the chefs, Segundo Vidarte or Gonzalo Amorós, serve to provide an unusual sensorial experience washed down with pisco, a distilled grape juice, or the beer, Cusqueña.
Among the delicacies to share, the ají amarillo (bread soaked in milk, Parmesan cheese and a slight hint of walnuts) or the escabeche de pescado are ideal starters that prepare the palate to receive the fried "Inti de Oro" ceviche, the Quinoto (a sort of risotto made of a cereal traditionally associated with the Incas) or the Corvina a lo macho (fillet of seabass with rice and shellfish). We will enjoy these "main courses” with the Suspiros limeños (caramel with meringue and cinnamon) or the ice cream made of lúcuma (a regional fruit).
If you want to experience an incredible journey to this Latin country without leaving Madrid, pay a visit to any El Inti de Oro restaurant, the oldest, classic Peruvian restaurants in the capital!

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Trends

RESTAURANTS BID FAREWELL TO THE TRADITIONAL OIL CRUETS

The consumer demands, the producer offers and the horeca channel decides

Olivarama.com

Although numerous hostelry establishments still don’t grant olive oil the protagonism it deserves, the truth is that, bit by bit, more and more of them have finally decided to allow themselves be seduced by the irresistible creations of many producers and are attempting to please consumers who increasingly demand to know what they are putting into their mouths. From roadside bars to ostentatious restaurants. The status makes no difference. It all depends on the businessman’s commitment to the quality of his product and, ultimately, the satisfaction of his clients… Read more.

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Trends

THE GOOD LIFE EMBASSY

The Spanish olive oils travel the world

Olivarama.com

A space in which to passionately enjoy gastronomy, in which pleasure and health meet and in which extra virgin olive oil takes on the mantle of host... This is The Good Life Embassy, a promotional initiative by Aceites de Oliva de España (Olive Oils from Spain).
Ten scenarios with an intercultural vocation located in the heart of strategic cities around the world in which the chef, Diego Guerrero, ambassador of this initiative, offers a world of sensorial experiences to good food lovers.
In a warm encounter with the chef last July, he revealed all sorts of details demonstrating the success of these embassies… Read more.

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Editorial

Misinformation

Olivarama.com

When four years ago we decided to launch this magazine, we knew exactly what our main goal would be. To focus on bridging the gap between quality olive oil producers and consumers. We had heard so much about the need to spread the olive oil culture in a direct and accessible way that ultimately it's what we have ended up doing.
With all of our trials and errors over this period of time, we have witnessed the emergence of other types of popular initiatives that share our mission. Among the most effective, thanks to their direct action, though limited to a generally small number of attendants, the tasting sessions particularly stand out, as in a fun and educational way, they endeavour to help the public develop good selection criteria.
Any place is a good place to teach consumers how to differentiate between oils: mills, local fairs, congresses, press releases, international shows… In these cases, the procedure to follow is usually to take two different paths which, nonetheless, always lead to the same place.
On the other hand, there are also tasting sessions in which consumers are taught to distinguish between an extra virgin, replete with positive attributes, and another olive oil that is bursting with defects. Whereas, other tasting sessions take place in a scaled way, that is, using extra virgins made of the same varietal harvested at different degrees of ripeness or alternatively, using different varietals with the purpose of teaching participants to appreciate the different intensities of fruitiness, bitterness and spiciness they offer.
Whatever the case, the expressions on the faces of the novices say it all. Often, they can't help feeling a certain fascination on seeing that what they had been consuming up to then bore no relationship whatsoever to excellence, however much their village mill had guaranteed it. No offence to the villages which, of course, are where the best extra virgins are made. Where else?
Nonetheless, such demonstrations achieve the opposite effect when the supposedly extra virgins actually aren't. We prefer not to name names, because we assume that they have good intentions, but the truth is that unfortunately these cases are not by any means uncommon.
On the contrary, we've tasted lampante oils among the selections of numerous food fairs in our country, at tastings organised by certain institutions that promote the product from their respective regions or in mills aiming to seduce the public with flat, bitter and, even, lampante, oils. A meaningless exercise that serves to misinform, rather than inform. This type of situation, however, has no place in the new section we are pleased to launch in this edition, “Culinary alchemy by Firo”, written by the distinguished chef, Firo Vázquez, a veritable expert in olive oil culture.

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Culinary Alchemy

TECHNIQUE 1

To infuse

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Whether raw or cooked, extra virgin olive oil is an excellent ally in the kitchen. Its renowned organoleptic properties and its resistance to high temperatures make it the cornerstone of endless culinary techniques. As Firo Vázquez de Parga will prove in this space. Both a lover and a connoisseur of this "beloved raw material", in each edition, Firo will reveal how to get the most out of natural olive juice, incorporating it into various culinary processes.
He will also reveal other gastronomic expressions of the olive, its fruits and its derivatives. Alchemy in the Kitchen: at the service of the most curious foodies and gourmets!... Read more.

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